Costume Design - Directing Thesis

Prior to starting work on any Columbia Theatre production, please make sure to read and understand the duties and stipulations for general design work at Columbia and the specific design area as detailed below.

General Information for All Design Disciplines

• The Theatre Program will only be responsible for department-approved designs that are received by their designated deadlines.
• Columbia property may not be altered without express permission.
• It is the responsibility of each designer to keep and fill out a comprehensive list of their items, categorizing everything by owner and location origin.
• There are no deliveries of purchased goods available on the weekends.
• All items purchased by the production budget are the property of Columbia University after the production.
• NYU designers need faculty permission from NYU to participate in Columbia SOA thesis productions.
• If a designer is going to be remote for all or most of the design process, their participation in the production must be approved by the relevant production staff to ensure that the designer’s in-person duties are adequately covered by a member of the production team. It is strongly recommended that designers be able to attend in-person rehearsals and meetings.
• A written and signed agreement indemnifying Columbia of liability must be provided for any items loaned to the production or borrowed for the production from sources outside Columbia.  This form is provided by the Production Manager.

Costume Design Responsibilities

1. Attend all Columbia Production Meetings
2. Determine and clarify who is responsible for costume props
3. Source rehearsal costume pieces prior to and during the rehearsal process. The Costume Shop Manager will pull and coordinated with design and stage management.
4. Prior to the first day of tech, source, and obtain all costume pieces for the production within the approved budget and in coordination with the Costume Supervisor. The costume shop will set up racks, hand over costume rehearsal pieces, and build/alter costumes.
5. Must attend 1st tech through dress rehearsal. If not available there must be a member of the creative team present to represent costumes during tech.
6. Coordination with Production Stage Manager, Director, and Costume Supervisor on designer schedule during the rest of tech. 

Process / Resources

1) GOOGLE DRIVE: 
All info for this production is shared via Google Drive. There is a folder for each show and all costume info will be housed within it. You should receive an email invite from Production Management. Please don’t hesitate to ask if you have questions about formatting, access, or organization.

2) CALENDAR: 
There will be a Production Calendar given to the whole team. Separate from the team’s calendar the shop manager will give you all important dates: run-throughs/tech, move-in dates, measurement deadlines, online shopping deadlines, build timelines, alteration deadlines, first day of rehearsal, etc. Please contact the Costume Manager to schedule meetings, drop offs, pull times, or shop time so these can be added to our daily calendar. 

3) COMMUNICATION: 
Please copy the Costume Manager on all costume related emails. It is important for you to check in at least twice a week. Email is our main form of communication, but we are available via phone or text during shop hours. Please respond to all emails regarding your shows and keep communication open. Please keep texting between the hours of 9am - 9pm. 

4) MEASUREMENTS: 
The shop will take measurements, once casting is solidified and will put that information into the Google Drive folder. Once actors are available, we take full body photos and upload those into the drive. (full front, side, and back, and a headshot) We create a quick measurement cheat sheet and include that in the Google Drive for easy reference when shopping, buying, and pulling. 

5) RENDERINGS AND RESEARCH: 
Please provide the shop a copy of renderings and/or research on the drive. It allows us to provide rehearsal items and answer questions while you are not onsite. The shop will always direct design questions back to you. Pieces list (prelim & final), research and/or renderings should be saved in the Google Drive for the production. As a general note with any production, we like to have a sense of time period and direction you plan to take the design AND line drawings or character specific research for principles and ensemble, coupled with accompanying research that helps notate color, setting, time period, etc. Any built garments or costume craft items must include a line drawing and research before execution. 

6) BUILDS AND CRAFT PROJECTS: 
Please discuss any builds you may foresee with the shop as early as possible. Given the limited staff and budgets, we would like to make sure the build(s) is/are possible before anyone gets too attached to an idea. Please check in before presenting any build ideas to your director.

7) HAIR AND MAKEUP: 
Hair and makeup are part of your show budget. The costume designer must provide makeup face sheets, research, and instructions for each character's look as well as research for all hair. Note: If you need process shots backstage, please discuss this beforehand so that we can assist you and not hold the actors beyond their call times. All performers must check in with the designer before receiving any haircuts, dyeing, and changes to hair or facial hair before they get anything done for the shows. Basic hair cuts/trims are the performer’s responsibility. Any changes to hair like dyeing or installs must come from costume budget, as well as restoring back hair if performer needs to maintain a style for casting/headshot purposes. We do not require major hair changes so please keep this in mind when designing. 

8) ORGANIZATION: 
The shop will set up racks for shows at the Nash Costume Shop, once we get a complete cast list and pieces list. All items for shows will live there. We will have bins/rack tags/ditty bags, oak tags for labeling, etc. There will be a designated space for you to keep your items and/or shopping as the show is coming together. 

9) PULLING: 
You can start pulling on your costume move-in date (first rehearsal). Ask the shop if you are looking for something specific that you are unable to find. We have a diagram/breakdown of stock and where items are located. As the workroom is small and a shared space, please make sure you keep items tidy, clearly marked, and in the correct tables and areas. 

10) RENTALS: 
We also love to establish rental connections around town so if you have someone you use for cheap/free, please let the Costume Shop Manager know. Please check stock before purchasing as we want to maximize our resources and space. All rented items must be tagged if not from our stock. There is a ribbon color coding system by show, so please check in with the shop before distributing clothing among the racks so we can label rentals and personal items. Columbia has contracts and payments set up with the TDF costume collection: TDF Rental Pricing for Costume Collection

11) BORROWING FROM ACTORS: 
If we borrow from an actor, they must fill out a waiver form. Once their clothing is signed over to us, it must stay with the shop until the last performance. All requested items must be at their fitting, so pictures can be taken for the director to view. All borrowed items must be tagged if not from our stock. All personal items must be removed at pre-strike as well as any designer's personal stock items.

12) PURCHASING: 
Please see the Purchasing section below. 

13) FITTINGS: 
There are designated days mapped out for fittings for each show. These are specified as the shop is doing many productions and must plan early. These fittings should take place during shop hours, unless there are extreme circumstances that do not allow it. There are no Saturday/Sunday fittings. 

The shop will facilitate all fittings: Set up/scheduling/fitting/notes/alterations. You must arrive on time and the day before fittings start to go over your rack and costume looks. We take pictures of every fitting and upload the day’s fitting pictures to the drive. Pictures include full body front, side, and back as well as close ups for color and jewelry or hard to discern pieces. 

Fittings are scheduled for 45min - 1hr depending on the costume changes or needs of the design. We try to schedule fittings close together, so you are not waiting around in the shop when you could be shopping or working on other projects. However, sometimes performer schedules make this very difficult, or impossible. Please keep the shop team in the loop on what other projects you may be working on so we can take it into consideration during scheduling. Additionally, please let us know if you have any conflicts with the existing show calendar sent with your agreement by your Production Manager. 

14) RACK WALK: 
Rack walks with the Director should be held 1 week prior to tech and all changes/notes delivered to the Costume Manager by the end of the following day. 

15) ALTERATIONS: 
We begin working on alterations or extra purchasing the week following fittings. All alterations are done by the costume shop. You are not responsible for alterations. 

16) DESIGN RUNS: 
The Costume Designer must attend designer runs. All costume tracking must be updated before the designer runs so we can flag any issues. Please make sure to have open communication with your director and stage manager about exit and entrance plots and time changes. 

17) TECH: 
The shop is in the theatre for first tech, then after as needed. When not in the building, we are available via text or email. The costume shop will have a whatsapp chat set up with the Costume Designer, Costume Shop Manager, and the Student Wardrobe Crew. In case something needs quick assistance we usually communicate via text so we can quickly pop back in or reach the wardrobe crew backstage. We also attend all meetings that follow 1st tech. Performer call times are 30min before tech. Please plan hair and makeup designs with this in mind. We have a Student crew and they will need a pieces list/plot as well as any hair and makeup research/tutorial pictures the weekend prior to the tech. We have 2 dressing rooms. These are usually divided by gender identity. A survey will be sent by stage management and discussed prior to dressing room assignments. You are required to be present for the first and second tech near the dressing rooms as questions may occur, but afterwards, are only in the dressing room area as needed. The shop maintains the shows for any alts or repairs. On techs that occur during the weekend the shop will do all notes on the following Monday. After Final Dress, the show is locked and no changes will happen unless you have discussed them with directors. If there is a schedule issue during tech this must be noted via email by emailing your Production Manager, Producer, Director, Costume Manager, and Stage Manager. 

18) SHOW NOTES: 
All tech notes must be given to the Costume Shop Manager. They will be typed up and included in a doc in the Google Drive bible and distributed to costume shops, wardrobe, and actors. All performers given costume notes must be documented, not just verbally. This is so all of the costume team has the note(s) and there isn’t confusion, miscommunication, or questions before the next tech or performance. There are costume problem sheets posted on the call board outside the dressing rooms. All notes are performed by the costume shop staff; if it’s not listed in the tech notes then the note doesn’t exist. 

Important Columbia Notes

1. WORKING WITH STUDENTS: This is a key thing to keep in mind when working with us. The designers brought in are here to help students visually navigate through the costume design process. Not all of the students or performers have the vocabulary or experience you bring, so remember to be patient, clear, and conscientious. They are lucky to have the chance to collaborate with professional non-school designers and also have you as guides. But don't hesitate to ask questions and give suggestions.
2. Columbia property may not be altered without express permission from the Costume Supervisor.
3. The theatre program will only be responsible for alterations and builds that were pre-approved by their designated deadlines.
4. All items purchased by the production budget are the property of Columbia University after the production.
5. Flame, sand, dirt, glitter, or other small particles are prohibited (venue & NYC law restrictions)
6. Any costume pieces that will be used scenically will need to be flame proofed by the shop and covered by the production’s material budget.
7. Spray painting in the Lenfest building is prohibited. A spray booth is available in the scene shop at Nash.
8. Laundry and dry cleaning generally are provided by the department and do not come out of the production budget. Please identify the items that need to be dry-cleaned on the Check In sheet. The exception to this is if there is more than one performer who will be getting stage blood on their costumes, the show must budget for purchasing 1 bottle of Dawn Dish Detergent.

Purchasing

1. All online purchases must go through the costume shop. The designer is responsible for any in person purchases and must include a receipt that lists the item was paid for in cash. Please see details below about Petty Cash.
2. There is a Budget Tracking Document in the Costume Google Drive folder where we track all purchasing for costumes.  Fill it out as you make purchases.  Please note the tabs and use the appropriate one for filing receipts. The first page is all totals. The last tab is where you can submit all online order requests.
3. The shop will do all online ordering. Please place links with descriptions of quantity, color, size, delivery preference, etc using the Budget Tracking Document, provided by the Costume Manager.  When you have added items to be ordered, please alert the Costume Manager via text/email.
4. Always use a tax-exempt form (if you are purchasing items on behalf of your production budget, tax will not be reimbursed)
5. A small amount of Petty Cash can be fronted for costume purchases through the Producer. All purchases made with Petty Cash must be paid in cash (credit/debit card purchases will need to go through the reimbursement process, gift card purchases cannot be reimbursed.). All receipts go to Production Management. You are responsible for your own Petty Cash budget and the Costume Manager will check in periodically on the status of these funds. (Remember to please track purchases as you make them!) All leftover funds must be returned by strike, as well as receipts.
6. All notions such as trim, additional closures that need to be purchased (ex. new zippers or buttons), and any travel will come from the production costume budget. Please reserve $50-$100 of your designated budget to go toward changes or purchases that may occur during tech. Any question about budget should go directly to the Producer while cc'ing the thesis production manager and costume shop manager.
7. If making a purchase via Facebook Marketplace, Craigslist, or another marketplace where you are directly paying a person rather than a company, please both save a screenshot of the original online listing and ask the person selling you the item to sign a simple receipt confirming the item, price, and date purchased.
8. REIMBURSEMENTS:
   1. All reimbursements are handled through Production Management.
   2. If you need to make a purchase with a personal credit/debit card, contact the Production Manager so that they may put it on their Columbia card. Purchases made with a personal credit card will need to go through the reimbursement process.
   3. As per University policy, all reimbursement submissions must have receipts with the following easily legible:
      1. Vendor Name
      2. Date of Purchase
      3. Itemized Details of what was purchased
      4. Proof of Payment (evidence of a credit or debit card charge, credit or debit statement, zero balance, or marked as paid)
   4. For online purchases, obtain the paid receipt, not a tracking or packing slip.
   5. If the receipt has someone’s name on it, the reimbursement must go to that person.
   6. If you are reimbursing an international citizen, a copy of their passport with entry stamp, and visa are required.
   7. All reimbursement requests must be submitted within 21 days of the production closing.
9. All purchases must be approved by Columbia prior to purchasing. If Columbia is faced with an unapproved expense, they may not pay it, leaving the expense burden on whoever made the purchase.
10. All items purchased by Columbia are owned by Columbia, not the production or any of its members.
11. All ordered items must ship from the USA.
12. Any orders being purchased and sent to Columbia should have the following address:
    Rachel Dozier-Ezell
    3280 Broadway
    Room 506
    New York, NY 10027
13. Please note: There are no deliveries of purchased goods available on the weekends.
14. Please do not ship anything directly to Lenfest.
15. Note that items shipped to Columbia may not be immediately accessible, as they must be distributed through Columbia’s internal delivery system. For items that are time sensitive, it is recommended that they be shipped to your personal address instead.

Recommended Costume Resources

Production Resource Center- Columbia’s Prop, Furniture, & Costume storage
Located at 3280 Broadway, 5th floor. ID required for entry to the building.

1. All appointments must be made with 48 hours advance through PR’s Google Calendar Appointment app.
2. Unless specially requested, appointments are for one-hour blocks only.
3. If you are late for your appointment, you will forfeit the time lost. We do overlap appointments.
4. We will store racks and bins in the costume shop for thesis productions until tech, when items will be moved to the theater dressing rooms.
5. All items should be returned in the condition you checked them out in. PR will launder washable clothing items for thesis shows.

TDF Costume Collection
https://www.tdf.org/nyc/30/TDF-Costume-Collection

1. Please contact the Costume Shop Supervisor to set up account and appointment information.
2. If this resource is used, an additional 20% of the rental fee must be set aside from the costume budget to cover potential damages/fees.
3. You must make an appointment with Costume Collection prior to renting. Please check in with the Production Manager and Costume Manager to make sure the purchase order is set up.
4. The Costume Designer must do the physical pick up of the rental.
5. The Costume Manager will return and restore all costumes to Costume Collection after tech.

Materials for the Arts
https://www.nyc.gov/content/mfta/pages/

• Recipients may visit the MFTA warehouse for supplies by appointment only. Appointments availability varies but is generally during the following times:
  Tuesdays 10 am to 1 pm (Warehouse closes at 2:00 pm)
  Thursdays 1:00 pm to 3:45 pm (Warehouse closes at 4:45 pm)
• You may make an appointment to visit MFTA through the Director of Production or Production Manager. Please email the names of the shoppers (maximum of three are allowed) and the contact information of the lead shopper to production management.
• All Items procured at Materials for the Arts are owned by Columbia, not the production or any of its members.